If green’s so great, then why are we just now beginning to pay attention? Our nation’s leaders are speaking of the future in regard to technology that exists today, and has been around now for decades. Has the technology that can make us a truly green nation, an international leader in conservation, and reduce and eliminate our needs for foreign energy resources been buried in an Area 51-like, government compound? And now the president is authorizing its release into society? Have the industry entrepreneurs been reluctant to tell anyone about their products and services until now for some reason? Why haven’t we heard more from our leaders and actually begin this process of going green before? If green’s so great… Where is it? What is it? What does it take to build energy efficiently and go Green?
Green Building Products
The world of green construction products has been around far longer than most people might think, and the number of products available has grown in the past several years. Finally, there are builders and real estate professionals that are beginning to take note and learn about, and implement these green, energy efficient products. What does this mean for the average consumer? More efficient homes and businesses are becoming more popular. As the products become more popular, more, new products are becoming available and competition to create better, more efficient products at better prices is becoming fiercer. The movement is on. For the purpose of this report, I am focusing on the products that make our homes and businesses more energy efficient. Some of these products include:
- Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs)
- Spray Foam Insulation
- Insulating Concrete Forms (ICFs)
- Solar Energy – Photovoltaics (PV)
- Wind
- Geothermal
These products can be used together to create some of the most efficient homes on the planet. If you’re building, your primary concern should be to create the tightest building envelope, or shell possible, with the greatest draft protection (lowest air infiltration rates), and the highest R-Values. This can be accomplished by using SIPs, Spray foam, and/or ICFs. With the first step making your building efficient, the next step is to give your property the ability to create its own energy using proven technology including solar, wind and geothermal technology.
Structural Insulated Panels
Structural Insulated Panels are a structural product used primarily in the construction of the building envelope, including floors, walls and roofs, though they can be used for curtain walls for added insulation where desired and for sound control. They consist of 2 outer skins of oriented strand board (OSB) for structural stability, and a center layer of rigid foam insulation material. Several types of foams are available and offer different characteristics, including varying R-Values per inch, vapor barrier, pest control, and fire protection.
The most common type of insulation used is Expanded Polystyrene (EPS). It’s most common because it provides great protection from the elements, at the lowest cost versus other insulation types. The down-sides of this type of foam include the lowest R-Value per inch, meaning if you want to get the highest R-Value from these panels, they are going to be much thicker than you’d get with other foam types. One thing in particular about this foam that I do not like is the fact that the foam melts faster than a marshmallow. Granted there is protection from fire by the interior gypsum board, as is required by building codes, it’s just not enough for me to feel comfortable using.
Another foam material used is high-density isocyanurate insulation, which is an advanced urethane formula. This foam is denser, gives you a better R-Value per inch and offers great fire protection. Panels with this foam formulation are offered for sale by only a few manufacturers in the country, as it costs more to make these panels, and they are more expensive for consumers. You get what you pay for with insulated panels, as you do with everything else. These panels are superior in every way to a typical EPS cored SIP.
SIPs were invented over 40 years ago, and have been in limited use since then. With low energy costs and little concern about energy efficiency, consumers, and builders in particular, have not felt the need to introduce this “new” product to their clients, though their clients surely would have appreciated it last winter when oil prices were over $4 per gallon and their inefficient homes chugged through oil like old fashioned locomotives. Some people literally went broke heating their homes last winter, and we are likely to see those prices again sooner or later.
SIP structures are built differently than your typical 2x4, or 2x6 framed projects. With the exception of around windows and doors and the plates, there are no studs in the walls. Panels can be delivered pre cut with all of the wiring chases pre-routed, or the construction crew can perform these tasks on-site. There are pros and cons either way, so each project should be considered on a case by case basis with these decisions made before having the panels shipped. Also, the panels can be delivered in varying sizes, and no shape is impossible to build with SIPS. Dimensions can be as large as 8’ x 24’! The speed that these can go up is remarkable. By the time the walls are up, they are already sheathed and insulated. The way my company builds, the walls are also wired as they’re built. SIP construction has been documented to be 40% faster than typical stick builds, and they wire 2% faster. So while you are going to pay a bit more in the cost of materials, you’ll definitely save money on labor costs.
To give a better idea on the insulation values available, a typical EPS foam panel yields r-Values around 3.75 per inch, while the urethane foam cores can reach R-Values of over 7 per inch. So a 4.5” EPS wall has an 3.5” of foam, and a continuous R-Value of around 13, and the polyiso will be at an R-25. There is an important distinction to be realized here when I mention the continuous R-Value. Walls with 2x4s or 2x6s have the studs placed most commonly at every 16”. There is little to no R-Value in the stud, meaning there is a break in the R-Value at each stud, thereby lowering the overall performance of any insulation material used between the studs. Again, with the SIPs, there are no studs, therefore no thermal breaks, and the stated R-Value is much closer to the actual R-Value of the completed project. The actual R-Value of a completed, studded wall can cut in half the stated R-Value. This is an important distinction to be made with SIPs (and ICFs), over stick built projects. I recommend the polyiso cores as thinner walls with better R-Values are a more attractive option; however, going with EPS is far better than typical construction techniques and building materials.
Spray Foam Insulation
The next best option for a well insulated outer shell is spray foam insulation. To use this type of insulation, builders and contractors can build the way they always have. The only thing they do differently is to call the insulation guy with the more expensive truck and equipment than their old guy. Spray foam is a great alternative to any of the traditional insulation materials like fiberglass batts or loose-fill, cellulose insulation products. I still prefer SIPs, and the reason I always give for my preference of SIPs over Spray Foam alone is the studding within the walls of a typical, stick-built structure, as I mentioned. It only makes sense. Aside from that, the construction process takes longer the old-fashioned way.
As with the foam in SIPs, you can get spray foam in several different forms as well. The main difference in the two types refers to the cellular make-up of the foam. There are open cell and closed cell formulas that again give you different R-Values per inch of insulation. As with SIPs also, the greater the R-Value per inch, the more expensive the product. The why’s and where’s of using foam can be determined on a case by case basis, depending on the ultimate R-Value goal, or by building code. By using denser foam you can, again, get better R-Values in thinner areas, whether it is in walls, floors, or attics. In the past, I have used SIPs for the walls and foam in the attic and basement.
Spray foam is sold in varying quantities from a hand-held can, to 50 gallon drums. There is foam for almost every job. Palm-sized foam products are great for sealing cracks or holes for pipes or duct plenums. Remember that the key to an efficient building is the tightness of the shell, and even small voids can impact the overall R-Value of that shell. If you need to do a larger area, it is pretty common to find do-it-yourself foam kits with typical yields of around 600 board feet or less. You’ll most commonly find closed-cell urethane foams in this quantity. These kits are expensive, costing upwards of $1.25 per board foot. Keep in mind that if the job is big enough, you may be able to get a professional contractor to do it for less.
Insulating Concrete Forms (ICFs)
Here’s another great way to maximize the efficiency of a structure, while maximizing the strength and durability at the same time. According to the ICFA (Insulating Concrete Form Association), you can build a home with concrete, for a price that, “is comparable to that of an ordinary 2x6 wood-framed house.” And I would agree with them when they go on to say, “But you get so much more home for your money.” What’s not to like? Your building has built-in fire protection, and can stand tall against Mother Nature.
An ICF is not your typical concrete form. The forms themselves are made of lightweight, EPS insulating foam, which is left in place after the concrete is cured. Compare that to a typical concrete form that’s extremely heavy and difficult to carry. The average concrete form must be put in place, poured into, left for days, then removed, carried and placed back on the truck. So now, you’ll need to figure out a way to insulate the concrete, if you so desire, and you’ll have to build the house on top of the foundation. With the ICFs, you can drop the forms into place, prep the rebar, pour and you’re done. Of course you could opt for a truss roof and spray foam it, or you could even mount a SIP roof onto the building. There are so many possibilities and options to choose from today, it boggles me that anyone is still using old-fashioned building materials and techniques.
Solar Energy (PV & Solar Thermal)
There aren’t many people left out there that have not heard of solar power, or what we can do with it. Just to cover the basics… solar panels are used to absorb the sun’s energy and then convert the sun’s energy into electricity. The power generated can be used to run a certain portion of the electrical system, or partially to completely offsetting the building’s electrical demand. And to make it more appealing, there’s always the thought of creating enough electricity where you’re making more power than you’re using, and then instead of getting a bill from the electric company, they’re sending you a check. The thought of sticking it to the utility like that sounds great doesn’t it!
Another option with solar, is called Solar Thermal. This is where solar power is used generate hot water. The hot water can be used for heating applications, and most commonly, the hot water used for showers and dishes, etc. When going solar, this is the most cost effective route, as systems typically run in the neighborhood of $10,000 installed. The payback on this system is faster than for a standard Photovoltaic (PV) system, and typically a solar hot water system will generate 100% of your hot water needs in the summer months (due to increased periods of sun) and usually 50% in winter months.
There are a great number of solar manufacturers and entrepreneurs out there trying to develop the latest and greatest solar technology, and bring it to the market first. Who can blame them? Solar will be a huge part of our energy independence solution, which means there are fortunes to be made. I believe we are a few great breakthroughs short of everyday consideration for residential applications because, after all, there is a problem with solar power. This problem has delayed the spread of solar into mainstream construction models. That problem is cost. For solar panels to be installed today, the average project runs between $8 and $12 per installed Watt, and can vary based on a number of things including panel location, mounting type, shade issues, etc.
Another misnomer with solar is their placement. There are many people that assume the panels are always placed on the roof. This is not the case. Keeping in mind that solar panels must face true south, there aren’t too many rooftops that are ideal for accommodating solar panels. Besides that, most rooftops are not large enough to accommodate enough panels for a worthwhile system. Most often, a roof-mount system is the solar hot water system, as only enough room is needed to accommodate two panels, and often the panels consist of evacuated tubes which can be turned and adjusted to accommodate some variance in the actual true-south positioning.
But there are grants and rebates, you say? Sure, and no one can knock the incentives, but consumers still have to pay for the system entirely up front, and then wait for the rebates and tax breaks to roll in. For first time home buyers, adjustments have been made where they can cash in on the first-time home buyer rebate at closing, rather than wait until the end of the tax year. It would be great to see this structure for renewable and efficiencies.
For a better estimation of what a system may cost for your home or business, and a great look at your property and positioning information, go to the Solar Energy Industries Association tools & Calculators page (http://www.findsolar.com/Content/SolarTools.aspx). I’ve found this to be a great resource when talking to prospects in the initial discussions of installing solar systems. They can give you a good idea of the incentives that would be available to you also. If you’d prefer to look at all of the incentives in a database, you can visit, DSIRE (Database of State Incentives for Renewables & Efficiency) at www.dsireusa.org. Deciphering the information can be a bit of a challenge, so for a accurate breakdown, and actual cost analysis, I’d recommend you speak with a local, experienced, solar professional installer, or retailer.
Wind
Wind? Did someone say turbine? That’s right! What were considered an eyesore in the past, are now being considered by many, a welcomed compliment to the skyline. They are also a great compliment to a solar array, in that, if the sun isn’t shining, it’s likely to be windy. Wind turbines are capable and extremely effective at creating power and transferring that power to homes and businesses, as with solar panels. In fact, between 2005 and 2008, the use of wind in the US has doubled. The rate at which wind farms are created is growing, and the number of turbines installed for individual homes and businesses is increasing as well.
It makes perfect sense to harness the power of the wind. It’s free, and there’s not likely to be a shortage of zephyrs, gusts, or breezes any time soon. The same goes for solar. It’s the main talking point for energy geeks… Harness all the free power we can, and we’re that much closer to energy independence.
The fact is, wind is becoming so popular that there are many that are opting for wind instead of solar. The technology is progressing rapidly, and many of the issues facing wind in the past are beginning to loosen. These issues include cost, sure. They also include height restrictions and local zoning bylaws in so many towns and cities, whereby people are not allowed to build anything taller than 30-35 feet. Many wind turbines are 30 feet or taller than any potential obstruction within 100’. That could be well over 100’. Without getting too involved, suffice it to say that there have been challenges at the local level with the construction of windmills.
Installers are more able to complete installs, after setting precedents. Once a turbine is installed, there is then a step by step process in place to complete the installation of another, and so on. Another way installers are able to get around installation issues, is by using different wind-collecting technologies. Many wind turbines have been designed to work at lower elevations with lower wind speeds, thereby avoiding any zoning infractions.
Geothermal – Geoexchange
In the last few years, as I have worked with people in construction, renovations and renewables, the least-known technology that I’ve introduced to people is geothermal. It’s surprising to me that there are so many people out there that still have not heard of it. This is most frustrating when talking to people building new buildings. The fact is, when you’re building, and you have to put a heating system in, and possibly central air, you should put in a geothermal system. The benefits of geothermal heating and cooling greatly outweigh the added up-front expense. Consider the long-term savings of never having to purchase a petroleum product. Whether petroleum prices skyrocket as they have in the past, or stay where they are, the payback of the added expense can be 3-4 years, or less. Why wouldn’t you do it?
The heat pumps run on electricity. This is not to say that you’re heating with electric heat, not even close. The heat pumps today are very efficient machines that are typically Energy Star rated for their electrical consumption. The only time you’re burning any electricity is when the pump is running, which will be most, on the coldest winter days. This is also when you’d be burning the most oil or gas. And there’s no need to play with the thermostat like people do when trying to save oil… The pumps run efficiently and cost-effectively enough where you can leave the thermostat within a 2 degree range for the year and still come out way ahead, and be plugging the savings away toward the system payback.
You can live comfortably warm, or cool, with absolutely no fear of huge heating or cooling bills!! In fact, a well insulated 2000 square foot home can be heated for as low as $250 per winter season, and less than $750 in heating, cooling and Hot Water costs for the entire year... add a renewable energy system, and it could be less, even $0.00! Thus the possibility of Zero Energy Homes and commercial properties.
To put actual, real-life numbers on the potential energy cost savings with a geothermal system, following is a list of well insulated homes in the state of New Hampshire with standing column geothermal systems, independently monitored by Public Service of New Hampshire (PSNH) from 2005 - 2006. The costs listed are for heating, cooling and hot water at $0.102/kWh (HEATSMART Rate).
2,048 square foot home - $849
2,400 square foot home - $635
2,880 square foot home - $717
3,126 square foot home - $674
3,797 square foot home - $1,060
4,914 square foot home - $1,303
8,066 square foot home - $3,033
26,000 square foot home - $9,940
Geo systems typically start between $20 & $30,000 installed, but can be considerably higher depending on the size and complexity of the install and existing equipment that may need to be replaced.
As scary as that may sound, consider the savings. How many gallons of oil do you buy at how much per gallon?? Operating costs for Oil Systems, too, are expensive: typically about 3x the cost of Geothermal. Geo systems absolutely do pay for themselves over time... typically in 7-12 years. As petroleum prices rise, that payback period shrinks. In fact, the savings of not buying oil are often greater than what the loan payments would be to buy a system.
There are many different ways of approaching a geothermal system install, and there are many websites out there that will give you all of the science behind each approach. Systems usually fall into an open loop, closed loop, or earth loop category. Depending on site-related and budgetary factors, there usually is a best approach for each individual install. You can find a list of certified installers and designers through the International Ground Source Heat Pump Association (IGSHPA) website located at www.igshpa.okstate.edu, under their business directory. IGSHPA is also a great place for some of the scientific information, and incentives mentioned. DSIRE will also cover incentives for geo systems.
With a geothermal system and ductwork, you can have a heating and central air conditioning system all with one system. There is no need for outdoor ac units, as the heat pump can run itself in reverse in summer months and supply your cooled air. It’s brilliant. If you factor the additional central air equipment you’re saving on, the payback is even faster. If you prefer, you can also use geothermal heat pumps with radiant flooring systems. They call this tie-in the perfect marriage for a heat-pump. The reason there is less of this is due to the added cost of the radiant system. With the two combined systems, there is a significant added expense, but if you enjoy and can afford the radiant, it would be worth it.
Zero Energy
The ultimate level of success in building an energy efficient structure is to obtain the level of zero net energy construction. What could be more ‘green living’ than residing in a home that produces as much energy as it consumes? This is the ideal scenario for the long term viability of our planet’s health. I don’t know if we’ll ever be in a place where someday most, if not all new homes and businesses are required to meet this standard. If we were to get there, we could then turn our attention to existing structures and begin a worldwide redevelopment of our older buildings. Think of the costs, sure… but what about the payback? The payback would be exponential related to the costs. Granted this is not an overnight process, but I believe we are finally heading in the right direction. Even to those that haven’t bought into global warming, it has to make sense that sooner or later, our planet’s energy reserves are going to be depleted. It may not be for a hundred years or more, but if we do not start on the resolution today, our prolonged existence here is as good as over.
So what does it take to create zero energy? The first thing that comes to mind is that any petroleum fired heating system is immediately out. There is no way for your home to create gas or oil, unless you have an oil rig in the back yard, or best-case, a natural gas line being fed into the building. In the case of the oil rig… good luck getting through the zoning board with that one, and as far as the natural gas line… it is still being fed into the house from a supply that will likely someday diminish. And the only way to offset this cost would to be to install enough solar panels, or turbines on or around the building that enough power was created to cover the electric bill, and then have the utility cut you a check large enough to offset the gas bill. Good luck with that one, too.
The other problem with these petroleum products is that they are burned to create heat. What is the result of burning something? Smoke, carbon emissions, and further pollution of our atmosphere. With a geothermal system that burns electricity, there is no exhaust, no emissions, and no waste. No chimney required. Put those savings toward the payback period and voila, we’re closer to breaking even now. Don’t forget the carbon monoxide alarms… you won’t need those either. Even the excess heat that the heat pumps’ compressors generate can be transferred to a hot water tank to supplement the generation of hot water. This can save the average home 30% on their hot water heating bill. Did you say, ‘Payback’?
To me, the way to do it is to start with some smart design, if we’re talking new construction, in order to take advantage of solar gains, and wind issues, or whatever opportunities the site offers. For the construction of the property, it needs to be built as efficiently as possible, using one of a combination of energy saving materials, like the ones listed earlier. The more energy our buildings can save, the less they will be expected and required to create. Then, follow design with the implementation of a geothermal system, including ductwork for heating and air conditioning. The next components, of course, add the solar and/or wind system to offset the electrical usage of the structure, including the heat pump/s. And the final phase of a zero energy home, is an energy conscious property owner.
What’s the Hold-up?
In regard to saving energy, producing energy, and renewable energy, the products available today are what we need to start meeting the call of the next generation, worldwide. It’s going to take more than one energy bill to change the energy-addicted world we’re in. It’s going to take the masses heeding the call and doing their part, one person at a time. It has begun with individuals and now it’s ongoing into communities, districts, states and so on. The movement towards a green planet starts with the actions of a few educating a few more and continuing the trend.
The trend can continue only with more individuals taking action and becoming educated. The most important initial action is to become educated. Educated individuals can effectively spread their knowledge to others, and then, watch the earth become a greener place… We need to ask questions, and share our knowledge. We all need to come together as individuals, to take action to make green living the norm.
There are many who doubt, or even fear the changes to come, but these changes are part of an evolution, a transformation of an entire planet for the greater good! Without sounding overly dramatic, we need to take the bull by the horns. The alternative is to wait, and do nothing until we are buried in an energy crisis, when any delays in mass-implementation of the technologies available, may be catastrophic. The thought of being able to avoid the worst by doing what’s possible today makes sense.
Mixed Messages Play Their Part
With all of the improvements in products and the available technology, you’d think builders would be seeking out and implementing the best of the best of what’s available. Bull. The fact is, many, if not most builders and contractors have tried to work their way around implementing the new and exciting products. They’ve done this by hyping up and using more efficient versions of the same old technologies. The old fashioned way works for them, as it has for the previous generation. It just ain’t good enough, anymore!
Energy Efficient Windows
My favorite example is with windows. I don’t know how many times I’ve read the real estate listings of builders claiming to offer energy efficient construction because they use Energy Star rated windows. Well whoopedy-doo! Their listing reads something like, “Quality construction with energy efficient windows” or, more deceivingly, “energy efficient construction, Energy Star windows.” And when you call and ask about the other energy saving features, they start talking about the beautiful granite countertops and great kitchen, or how many bathrooms there are.
I’d like for you to go to any place where windows are sold. Ask the sales rep if they sell any windows that are not Energy Star rated windows. Let me know if you find any that aren’t home-made stained glass windows made by the local artisan. So they install these Energy Star windows, and then they build with 2x4s and fiberglass batt insulation that just gets them to the minimum code requirement. Is this an energy efficient home? It is… if you compare it to the homes that were built before the advent of insulation and built with single pane windows. How’s that for mixed messages? If they aren’t using a product from the list of what I’ve presented, or some variation, then they are building an old fashioned, leaky, house with windows built in an average factory.
Fiberglass Batt Insulation
Another common attempt at efficiency is brought to you by builders who opt to build using 2x6 studs for the simple fact that they can then get thicker fiberglass batt into the cavities between the studs. While it is true that they are going from an R-11 in the walls to an R-19, the insulation they are using is still a drafty, weak performing option, and it’s often installed incorrectly. Think about how difficult it must be to get the fiberglass insulation cut to fit around all of the switches and plugs and plumbing that may be inside the exterior walls, never mind cutting it lengthwise into cavities that are a narrower dimension than the batts themselves. Just mash the batts in there. Why not? And what about the really small areas where the framing studs are close, but not quite touching. Often times, these areas are just left void of insulation entirely. Most people don’t even realize the massive impact this can have on the overall R-Value of the walls and the entire structure. If the R-Value batts used are 11, the resulting R-Value could be as low as 5, or 6 (or even lower). That’s not much better than the R-Value of the windows! So some builders attempt to improve on this by just sticking in some thicker insulation. It will get a higher overall R-Value, but you’re not getting your money’s worth here either. If you absolutely insist on using fiberglass, make sure your installer at least brings with him a case of spray foam cans to fill small voids, gaps and cracks, and around any electrical boxes, etc.
Builders Associations For and Against Energy Conservation?
As a member of a national builders association, and my local association, I am bombarded with emails and articles regarding the housing market, and more specifically, new housing. There are typically one or two articles regarding green energy, or some form of conservation. Within the last few months, I’ve had some interesting items come through my email box. One that you’d expect to see from a builders’ association was run by the national association. It was an article which raises the point that real estate professionals, including realtors and real estate appraisers underestimate, and even ignore green features when trying to determine property values and asking prices. From my experience, this could not be truer. But you’ll also need to add banks to that list, as they are directly tied to the coat tails of the realtors and appraisers.
The fact is, some green items within the LEEDs program, don’t add much in terms of value to the home’s value. These items would include things like wood species, low VOC paints, but there are plenty that should be included. Most importantly would be any improvements in the energy savings elements of the property. It only makes sense when we’re talking about banks and tight lending guidelines to give the borrower credit for reducing their future energy costs. The fact is, they are relying on the appraisals provided by appraisers who have been using the same criteria forever. Square footage vs. square footage, and that’s about it. It’s infuriating.
Realtors have begun doing their part in receiving training in green real estate. Of course, there aren’t many realtors who have actually taken the training - about 1,500 as of last year. It’s a start, I guess, but are the rest of the realtors out there asleep? Real estate is their business and yet, they are ignoring the future of the marketplace. According to Don Briggs, owner of Briggs Associates, Inc., who specializes in green appraisals, “90% of people looking for a home have at least some awareness of green.” Buyers will need to do some legwork to find a qualified professional who can help them find, or sell, their green property. As long as we’re going to be waiting for realtors to get on board, appraisers will come after the realtors, which is making this movement towards green and energy efficiency more complicated and drawn out.
To make matters worse for the movement, there are builders, and entire builders associations who are in plain defiance of the movement to make homes and businesses more efficient. You may need to reread that last sentence. It’s true. In the last several months I have received emails from my local builders association urging its builder/contractor members to attend a state house conference in order to fight AGAINST an expansion of the energy code. The new law, since having been passed, allows for different towns to make energy codes more stringent within their own municipalities. They could go through the appropriate channels and require energy conservation control at whatever standard above the current code that they saw appropriate.
One of the arguments they used to fight this new law was that it would be difficult for builders to keep up with the different requirements from town to town, as some towns would require more, or less, than any other town. I can understand how the old-fashioned builder, set on building to the absolute minimum requirements, would be affected by this new law. Really, these are the guys that would be forced into doing the extra legwork. Seems to me, the guys committed to the lowest quality, least efficient construction practices should have to do more to stay in business. Companies like mine have to work too hard to convince people that it’s worth the added cost to build a more efficient building, when they have a quote from the guy who wants to build an old fashioned, inferior quality home for less. At the same time, the banks, appraisers and realtors, are going to encourage the consumer to go with the low bidder, by way of low quality building comps and subpar valuations versus my product. Forgive me if I don’t sympathize with the old-school, stick builders and contractors.
The fact is, the tighter the building’s envelope, the less other items will cost, including the heating and air conditioning system. Less system will be required to heat the same sized home and less energy will be used later to run the heating and cooling systems. As an example, we recently installed a geothermal system for a client who was transferred to our area by his employer. Without really researching who he was hiring, or what kind of home he would be getting, he hired this very experienced builder. I cringed when the homeowner told me that the builder told him that 2x4 construction with fiberglass insulation is still the way to go when building. As a result, he got a drafty house, with a 6 ton heating system. Had he insulated better, he could have gotten away with a 4 ton system that would cost less to run, and would run less, saving money both on the smaller system, and on the amount of energy used to run the system. I hope that makes sense.
For a company like mine, this is not an issue. We build to an energy standard above any set of standards available, including the Energy Star program. The Energy Star program is a good starting point, and if all builders out there could at least meet these requirements, the movement towards efficiency would be well underway. As builders and contractors, we’d be on a much more even playing field, and as consumers at least the low bidding contractor would be held to a higher standard, and the consumers would not have to worry about getting mixed messages from building “professionals”. When builders build with cheaper materials, it means more profit for them, and less money for you every time you receive a utility bill. Energy efficiency is an investment that costs more in the beginning, but it will pay for itself over and over again. I’ll say that as many times as it takes.
The other argument they use is that the added cost of building an energy efficient structure will put the costs of construction out of reach for many consumers. I see this as more malarkey. As consumers we always want more than we can afford. Many say that it’s human nature. Over the past 15 years or so, many of the homes built have been called mcmansions. How many of these homes are now being foreclosed? Too many. People bought these homes, and were allowed to with some shady lending practices, and the people who cannot really afford these homes, are living somewhere else. My point is that people need to be more realistic about what they are buying. When people bought the homes, the last thing on their minds was how much it would cost the heat and/or cool the homes. I can guarantee that these homes were not built to the highest standards. These homes were built by the low-bidder contractors-turned-developers, putting up entire communities of minimally built, overpriced, profit machines.
My point is simply, we should at least be aware of what our buildings will cost to live and work in. The less you pay for the construction upfront, the more you’re going to be paying to over the long term. With the incentives, tax rebates, and energy savings, you’re likely to see savings greater than the increase in mortgage payments, meaning the added investment will pay for itself from day one. If we spend more on the items that can help with long term expenses and actually pay for themselves over time, versus the items that just cost us money; we can afford to live more efficiently. This might be a hard sell for some, but it’s becoming more of a reality and necessity, every day.
source :http://www.articlesbase.com/construction-articles/if-greens-so-great
